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Arenal beyond the volcano: a local's guide

Carlos Fonseca · April 9, 2026 · 6 min read
La Fortuna, Arenal

Most visitors to Arenal follow the same script: volcano photos, thermal pools, hanging bridges, done. I was born here. There's so much more. Here's what the locals know.

Hot springs off the tourist circuit

The big thermal complexes — Tabacón, Baldi — are beautiful but crowded. For something quieter, ask about Ecotermales Fortuna (small, intimate, must reserve in advance) or the natural 'pozas' on the Río Cholín accessible by 15-minute trail. The water temperature is identical; the crowds are not.

The natural pools on the Río Cholín — accessible without a reservation.

The waterfall everyone forgets

La Fortuna waterfall gets 500 visitors a day. That's fine — it's genuinely spectacular. But 15 minutes away, the Catarata Río Fortuna trail through secondary forest leads to a smaller fall with a swimming hole and almost never a crowd. Ask your guide or hotel reception; it's not in any guidebook.

"The tourism industry built Arenal around the volcano. But the valley has a hundred secrets that take a lifetime to find." — Carlos

Sodas worth driving for

  • Soda La Hormiga on the road toward Venecia — casado with fresh hearts-of-palm and the best patacones in the region, eaten at a table with a direct volcano view.
  • La Choza de Laurel on the edge of town — the full local breakfast experience. Bring an appetite.
  • Don Olivo near Chachagua — technically outside Arenal but 20 minutes' drive for the arroz con leche is a decision you will never regret.
Go on a weekday morning

Arenal on a Saturday afternoon in January is a different experience from Arenal on a Tuesday at 7am. The volcano, the forests and the hot springs don't change. The crowds do. If you have flexibility, plan your key activities for midweek mornings.

The chocolate tour nobody talks about

There are three excellent cacao farms within 30 minutes of La Fortuna. The best is Finca Don Olivo (different from the soda above), a family-run operation where you pick, ferment, dry and roast your own bar. It takes 3 hours and the resulting chocolate is extraordinary. This is not on the main tour operator lists — call ahead directly.

Arenal rewards slow travel. The visitors who rate it highest are those who built unscheduled time into the itinerary — an afternoon wandering the edge of the 1968 lava field, a morning kayaking on Lake Arenal in flat water. Our Multi Sport Eco Adventure package is built around this philosophy.

Arenal Location La Fortuna
Carlos Fonseca

Born and raised in La Fortuna, Carlos has been guiding in Arenal for 18 years. He knows every hidden waterfall and family soda in the region.

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